Timex Marlin: The Reissue That Restarted Timex

The Timex Marlin is the watch that turned Timex into an enthusiast brand. A 1960s mid-century design, it was reissued in 2017 as a faithful 34mm hand-wound watch — Timex's first mechanical watch since 1982 — and grew into a full collection of hand-wound, automatic and quartz models.

The 1960s Original

The original Marlin belonged to Timex's mechanical golden age of the 1950s and 1960s, when the brand dominated American watch sales. It was a slim, inexpensive dress watch with a small round case and clean sunburst dial — the kind of everyday mechanical watch Timex built by the million before quartz ended its mechanical production in 1982.

The 2017 Hand-Wound Reissue

In 2017 Timex brought the Marlin back with remarkable fidelity: a 34mm × 10mm stainless steel case matching the original's dimensions, a domed acrylic crystal, an 18mm strap, 30m water resistance and a hand-wound mechanical movement made in China. At around US$199 it delivered a genuine mechanical, period-correct vintage watch at a price few others could match, and its success persuaded Timex that a real enthusiast audience existed.

The Marlin Automatic (40mm)

A larger Marlin Automatic followed in a 40mm steel case, powered by the Japanese Miyota 8215 (21 jewels, 21,600 vph, around 40 hours of power reserve) and fitted with a domed crystal and 30m water resistance. It launched at around US$249 in dial colours including silver, black and burgundy, and opened the Marlin to wearers who wanted a self-winding watch and a more contemporary size.

California Dial and Marlin Jet

In late 2020 Timex added the Marlin Automatic California , using the "California" layout of Roman numerals in the top half and Arabic numerals in the bottom half, at around US$250. In 2024 the line gained the Marlin Jet , a slimmer, sportier take in a 38mm case with a Hesalite "glass box" crystal and raised flange, priced at around US$289, later joined by titanium and GMT variants. Quartz Marlins have also broadened the range at lower prices. For Snoopy's 75th anniversary in 2025, Timex released the Timex x Peanuts Marlin Automatic 75th Anniversary Edition, with Snoopy reclining in a dial window; see our guide to the best Snoopy watches.

Why the Marlin Matters

The Marlin proved that Timex's heritage archive was a commercial asset. Its success directly enabled the Q Timex, M79 Automatic and Waterbury automatics that followed.

Which Marlin Should You Buy?

The 34mm hand-wound is the purist's choice: closest to the original in size and feel, slim at 10mm, and engaging to own because it needs winding every day or two. On modern wrists it wears small, which is exactly its appeal for fans of vintage proportions.

The 40mm Automatic is the practical choice. It winds itself as you wear it, sits comfortably on larger wrists, and comes in the widest range of dials, including the California. The Marlin Jet splits the difference at 38mm with a sportier, more modern profile and a box-style crystal.

Ownership Notes

The Miyota 8215 in the Marlin Automatic can also be wound by hand, but it does not hack — the seconds hand keeps running while you set the time — a common trait of affordable automatics. The acrylic and Hesalite crystals on several Marlins scratch more easily than sapphire, but light scuffs can be polished out with an inexpensive acrylic polish, something sapphire never allows. Water resistance of 30 metres means the Marlin is a dress-casual watch: fine for rain and hand-washing, not for swimming.

How It Compares

The Marlin's natural rivals are other affordable vintage-style dress watches, notably the Orient Bambino with its domed crystal, and the entry-level Seiko Presage models, which cost more but offer more refined dials. The Marlin's advantage is authenticity: it is a genuine reissue of a historic design from the same company, not a pastiche.

Frequently Asked Questions

When was the Timex Marlin reissued?
In 2017, as a 34mm hand-wound reissue of the 1960s original — Timex's first mechanical watch since 1982.

What size is the Timex Marlin?
The hand-wound reissue is 34mm × 10mm; the Marlin Automatic is 40mm; the Marlin Jet is 38mm.

What movement is in the Marlin Automatic?
The Japanese Miyota 8215 automatic: 21 jewels, 21,600 vph and around 40 hours of power reserve.

What is the Marlin California?
A Marlin Automatic variant (from 2020) with a California dial: Roman numerals in the upper half and Arabic numerals in the lower half.

Related Reading

• Timex: Brand History
• Q Timex
• Timex Waterbury